Soak the rice and fry the onions

Wash the rice and soak in cold water for 30 minutes. Set aside. Heat oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the sliced onions and fry, stirring regularly, until deep golden brown. Remove half the fried onions and set aside as birista for layering. Do not discard.

Add whole spices and ginger-garlic

Into the remaining onions, add all the whole spices and sauté (bhunna) for 30 seconds until fragrant. Add ginger and garlic paste and sauté (bhunna) for 1–2 minutes until the raw smell disappears.

Add the chicken directly. Sauté (bhunna) on medium-high until colour changes and water dries off. 5–6 min. Add tomatoes, yoghurt, alu bukhara, ground spices, and salt. Sauté (bhunna) until tomatoes fully break down and oil separates clearly at the sides. The masala should be thick and rich — not watery, not dry. Add 100ml water, cover and cook on low until chicken is just tender. 10 min. Remove lid and dry off excess moisture. Remove from heat and stir in 1 tsp kewra water.

Parboil to 70–75% only

Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a rolling boil. Add the bay leaf, green cardamom, cinnamon, and cloves. Drain the soaked rice and add to the boiling water. Cook uncovered until 70–75% done — press a grain between your finger and thumb, the outside should feel cooked but the centre should still have a firm bite. Drain immediately into a colander. Do not overcook.

Layer the biryani

Smear 1 tbsp oil across the base of a large, heavy-bottomed pot. Spread just over half the parboiled rice in an even layer. Spoon all of the chicken masala over the rice, distributing the chicken evenly. Lay the lemon slices over the masala. Scatter half the mint, half the coriander, and the slit green chillies on top. Spread the remaining rice as the final layer. Scatter the birista, remaining mint and coriander. Drizzle the ghee, saffron milk (or food colour), and a few drops of kewra water evenly over the top.

Place a clean kitchen cloth or thick paper towel on top of the pot, then place the lid on tightly over it. Place the pot on high heat for 3 minutes until you hear a faint sizzle and see the first wisps of steam from the sides. Immediately reduce to the lowest possible heat and cook for 15–20 minutes. Do not lift the lid. Remove from heat and rest for 5 minutes. When serving, scoop from the side — not the top — to get layers of rice, chicken, and masala in each portion. Serve with raita and kachumber salad.